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Ladakh
Hill Station
Its landscape, sky, shooting
stars, silence, wizened faces,
rosy cheeks, dragons and Zen
– everything makes Ladakh
a quite place to visit. This
ethereal cold desert that
goes by names such as ‘The
Last Shangrila’, Moonscape,
Little Tibet and so many others
– all of which ring
true, is a land that seldom
fails to baffle or surprise.
The start and rugged landscape
is situated amidst multiple-hued
mountains, some smooth enough
to rub your cheeks on, others
scraggly as though termites
have had a go at them for
breakfast. Miles and stretches
of this never-never land,
surprised by quaint little
vibrant green hamlets oozing
wild roses and lavender, fringe
the life-giving Indus River.
Ladakh is a land like no other.
Bounded by two of the world's
mightiest mountain ranges,
the Great Himalaya and the
Karakoram, it lies athwart
two other, the Ladakh range
and the Zanskar range.
In geological terms, this
is a young land, formed only
a few million years ago by
the buckling and folding of
the earth's crust as the Indian
sub-continent pushed with
irresistible force against
the immovable mass of Asia.
Its basic contours, uplifted
by these unimaginable tectonic
movements, have been modified
over the millennia by the
opposite process of erosion,
sculpted into the form we
see today by wind and water.
Yes, water! Today, a high
-altitude desert, sheltered
from the rain-bearing clouds
of the Indian monsoon by the
barrier of the Great Himalaya,
Ladakh was once covered by
an extensive lake system,
the vestiges of which still
exist on its south -east plateau
of Rupshu and Chushul - in
drainage basins with evocative
names like Tsomoiri, Tsokar,
and grandest of all, Pangong-tso.
Occasionally, some stray monsoon
clouds do find their way over
the Himalaya, and lately this
seems to be happening with
increasing frequency. But
the main source of water remains
the winter snowfall. Drass,
Zanskar and the Suru Valley
on the Himalaya's northern
flank receive heavy snow in
winter; this feeds the glaciers
whose meltwater, carried down
by streams, irrigates the
fields in summer. For the
rest of the region, the snow
on the peaks is virtually
the only source of water.
As the crops grow, the villagers
pray not for rain, but for
sun to melt the glaciers and
liberate their water. Usually
their prayers are answered,
for the skies are clear and
the sun shines for over 300
days in the year. |
Trekking Ladakh
Its landscape, sky, shooting
stars, silence, wizened faces,
rosy cheeks, dragons and Zen
everything makes Ladakh a
quite place to visit. This
ethereal cold desert that
goes by names such as ‘The
Last Shangrila’, Moonscape,
Little Tibet and so many others
– all of which ring
true, is a land that seldom
fails to baffle or surprise.
The inhabitants of Ladakh
are simple smiling people
who greet one and all with
the all-encompassing which
could mean hello, bye, thank-you
and please! So if there is
a word of Ladhaki that you
must learn. The stark and
rugged landscape is situated
amidst multiple-hued mountains,
some smooth enough to rub
your cheeks on, others scraggly
as though termites have had
a go at them for breakfast.
Miles and stretches of this
never-never land, surprised
by quaint little vibrant green
hamlets oozing wild roses
and lavender, fringe the life-giving
Indus River.
Jeep Safari
This 17 day trip encompasses
exciting activities. Arrive
in Delhi on the first day
and take a trip by car or
air to Manali. Enjoy a wondrous
trip from Manali to Lespa
by jeep, while you cross the
famous Rohtang pass and the
Baralachal and Baratacha La
passes. Camp overnight at
the picturesque Nallah. On
day seven, visit the Tsokar
Lake camp overnight near the
lake. On the 10th day, visit
the Shey Hemis and Thiksey
monasteries, and spend a day
of leisure the next day. Move
on to Uletopko and visit the
Lumayuro monastery. Leave
for Delhi on the 15th day
and go sightseeing to various
exciting places including
Agra.
Rafting
The most difficult but exciting
option for river running is
on the Zanskar along its spectacular
course through the gorge in
the Zanskar mountins, between
Padum and Nimo. This is suitable
only for well organized white-water
expedition, prepared for several
days of river running and
camping in absolute wilderness.
Participants are required
to be trained rafters themselves
while the arrangements should
be assigned to a dependable
professional agency. Adequate
arrangements for rescue coverage
is an essential pre-requisite
for embarking upon a white
-water expedition on river
like the Zanskar.
Though Himachal has a number
of rivers, it is only the
Beas and the Chandra River
in Lahaul that have been used
for river running. There are
regualr runs between Shamshi
and Aut on the Beas. the 20
km stretch has exciting white
water and class 3 rapids.
The Chandra River flowing
through the exotic mountainscape
of Lahaul is another interesting
area for river rafting. The
other rivers of Himachal,
namely the Ravi and Sutlej
also have possibilities for
rafting and canoeing.
With the sky-high Himalaya
in the north and the sea-level
jungle in the south separated
by a mere 200 km of hilly
terrain, the entire country
is like a steep incline. The
rivers that flow down from
the mountains towards the
flatlands, therefore are of
the high speed kind. Brimming
with glacial melt, the raging
rivers charge down from the
high mountains and as they
twist and roar through the
narrow gores the waters churn
into white foam-answering
the prayers of every river
runner.
Apart from the thrill of
charging down tremendous waves
and swirls, a white water
trip on Nepal's waterways
provide splendid views of
the landscape and river died
flora and fauna. Descending
from the mountains to the
plains, a river trip also
provides a cross-section of
Nepal's ethnic diversity.
You traverse a variety of
terrain. lifestyles and climatic
conditions in a few short
days. Some rivers rush through
scenic canyons with sheer
rock walls on either side
while others course through
uninhabited wilderness to
offer varied scenery and excitement.
Water Sports
Cutting across the lunar
landscapes of Ladakh, The
Indus river begins its 2,000
mile long journey, biting
through a land few men have
seen. Often called the 'lion
river' the Indus roars across
great hams of mountain and
earth, bridging both in a
roar of thundering foam as
she plunges across untamed
countryside. As she passes
through Leh, river runners
congregate to navigate her
waters, ice-cold, clear and
offering infinite variations
to occupy all grades of enthusiasts.
Options include a half day
scenic run for amateurs on
low waters from they along
fast currents through canyons
and along spectacular mountain
views to Niemo, the confluence
of the zanskar and Karakoram
ranges. Or combine a scenic
and white trip on the run
from Niemo. Water-skiing on
Dal and Nagin lakes is a popular
sport and for those who are
trying it for the first time
ten-day water ski courses
are available. Canoeing too
may be attempted at the high
altitudes lakes, while diving
in the lakes has still to
catch on. |
Flora and fauna
The wildlife of this region
was first studied by Ferdinand
Stoliczka, an Austrian/Czech
palaeontologist, who carried
out a massive expedition in
the region in the 1870s. Vegetation
is extremely sparse in Ladakh
except along streambeds and
wetlands, where several wild
herbs and shrubs can be seen.
Some vegetation is also found
on high slopes that receive
more snow, and in irrigated
places.
The fauna of Ladakh have
much in common with that of
Central Asia in general and
that of the Tibetan Plateau
in particular. Exceptions
to this are the birds, many
of which migrate from the
warmer parts of India to spend
the summer in Ladakh. For
such an arid area, Ladakh
has a great diversity of birds
— a total of 225 species
have been recorded. Many species
of finches, robins, redstarts
(like the Black Redstart)
and the Hoopoe are common
in summer. The Brown-headed
Gull is seen in summer on
the river Indus and on some
lakes of the Changthang. Resident
water-birds include the Brahminy
duck also known as the Ruddy
Sheldrake and the Bar-headed
Goose. The Black-necked Crane
(Ladakhi: Thung Thung), a
rare species found scattered
in the Tibetan plateau is
also found in parts of Ladakh.
Other birds include the Raven,
Red-billed Chough, Tibetan
Snowcock and Chukar. The Lammergeier
and the Golden Eagle are common
raptors here.
The endangered Ibex, found
in high craggy terrain, numbers
several thousand in Ladakh.
The Bharal, or blue sheep,
is common in the Himalayas,
ranging from Ladakh to as
far as Sikkim. The Shapu is
a rare goat that numbers about
a thousand. Found at lower
elevations, mostly in river
valleys, it competes with
domesticated animals. The
Argali, or Nayan, is a relative
of the Marco Polo sheep of
the Pamirs with huge horizontal
curving horns. They number
only a couple hundred in Ladakh.
The Chiru, or Tibetan antelope,
(Ladakhi: Tsos) is an endangered
animal that has traditionally
been hunted for its wool known
as shahtoosh, valued for its
light weight and warmth and
as a status symbol. The Kyang,
or Tibetan Wild Ass, is common
in the grasslands of Changthang,
numbering about 1,500 individuals.
There are about 200 Snow Leopards
(Ladakhi: Shan) in Ladakh,
especially in the Hemis High
Altitude National Park. Other
cats in Ladakh are even rarer
than the snow leopard, the
Lynx, numbering only a few
individuals, and the Pallas's
cat, which looks like a house
cat. The Tibetan Wolf which
preys on the livestock of
the Ladakhis, is the most
persecuted, reduced to just
about 300. There are also
a few brown bears in the Suru
valley and the area around
Dras. The Tibetan Sand Fox
has recently been discovered
in this region. Among smaller
animals, Marmots, voles, hares,
and several types of Pika
are common.
Culture
Ladakhi culture is similar
to Tibetan culture. Ladakhi
food has much in common with
Tibetan food, the most prominent
foods being Thukpa, noodle
soup; and Tsumpa, known in
Ladakhi as Ngampe, roasted
barley flour. Eatable without
cooking, tsumpa makes useful,
if dull trekking food. A dish
that is strictly Ladakhi is
skyu, a heavy pasta dish with
root vegetables. As Ladakh
moves toward a less sustainable
cash-based economy, foods
from the plains of India are
becoming more common. Like
in other parts of Central
Asia, tea in Ladakh is traditionally
made with strong black tea,
butter, and salt; it is mixed
in a large churn and known
as gurgur cha, after the sound
it makes when mixed. Sweet
tea (cha ngarmo) is common
now, made in the Indian style
with milk and sugar. Most
surplus barley produced is
fermented into Chang, an alcoholic
beverage drunk especially
on festive occasions.
The architecture of Ladakh
contains Tibetan and Indian
influences, and reflects a
deeply Buddhist approach.
The Buddhist wheel, along
with two dragons, is a common
feature on every Gompa (including
the likes of Lamayuru, Likir,
Thiske, Hemis, Alchi and Rhizong
gompas). Many of the houses
and monasteries are built
on elevated, sunny sites facing
the south, and are often made
out a mixture of rocks, wood,
cement and earth.
Traditional Ladakhi music,
like Tibetan music, often
involves religious chanting
in Tibetan or Sanskrit, as
an integral part of the religion.
These chants are complex,
often recitations of sacred
texts or in celebration of
various festivals. Yang chanting,
performed without metrical
timing, is accompanied by
resonant drums and low, sustained
syllables. Religious mask
dances are an important part
of Ladakh's cultural life.
The Hemis monastery, a leading
centre of Drukpa Buddhism,
is a centre for an annual
masked dance festival. The
dances typically narrate a
story of fight between good
and evil, ending with the
eventual victory of the former.
Weaving is an important part
of traditional life in eastern
Ladakh. Both women and men
weave, on different looms.
Typical costumes include Gonchas
of velvet, elaborately embroidered
waistcoats and boots, and
gonads or hats. The Ladakh
festival is held every year
in September. The people,
adorned with gold and silver
ornaments and turquoise headgears
throng the streets. Monks
wear colourful masks and dance
to the rhythm of cymbals,
flutes and trumpets. The Yak,
Lion and Tashishpa dances
depict the many legends and
fables of Ladakh. Buddhist
monasteries sporting prayer
flags, display of 'thankas',
archery competitions, a mock
marriage, and horse-polo are
the some highlights of this
festival.
Archery is a popular sport
in Ladakh. Archery festivals
are held during the summer
months in villages. These
are competitive events, to
which all the surrounding
villages send their teams.
The sport is conducted with
strict etiquette, to the accompaniment
of the music of surna and
daman (oboe and drum). Polo,
the other traditional sport
of Ladakh is indigenous to
Baltistan and Gilgit, and
was probably introduced into
Ladakh in the mid-17th century
by King Singge Namgyal, whose
mother was a Balti princess.
A feature of Ladakhi society
that distinguishes it from
the rest of the state is the
high status and complete emancipation
enjoyed by women. A related
feature is the absence of
a caste system, although class
distinctions do exist. Fraternal
polyandry and inheritance
by primogeniture were actively
practiced in Ladakh until
the early 1940s when these
were made illegal by the then
government of Jammu and Kashmir,
although they still exist
in remote areas. Another custom
was known as khang-bu, or
'little house', in which the
elders of a family, as soon
as the eldest son has sufficiently
matured, retire from participation
in affairs, and taking only
enough of the property for
their own sustenance, yielding
the headship of the family
to him |
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