As
I tried to change the
angle of sight in my
attempt at making the
Langur stop appearing
as a silhouette, I realised
that this was not the
common species that
we were accustomed to
seeing in north India.
This was our first sighting
of the Nilgiri Langur!
It was a fascinating
sight. I almost felt
like I was watching
a negative before getting
a print made out of
it. The areas black
in a common langur were
white in this species
and vice-versa. It appeared
larger too, although
I suspected that this
was more due to its
colouration. As we approached,
trying to make as little
noise as possible, no
sooner had the leader
of the group spotted
us that they all vanished
like ghostly forms floating
across the treetops
of the Silent Valley
National Park.
The
bus journey from Pallakad
to Mannarkad and then
on to Mukkali was one
full of apprehension
for me. I was absolutely
brimming with excitement
as I expected this visit
to be very different
from those to other
wildlife reserves. This
was the only remaining
evergreen rainforest
left in the area. In
my mind I thanked the
many people, like Dr.
Salim Ali, who fought
a long battle to convince
the authorities of this
forest's importance.
If it hadn't been for
them, we would today
have been deprived from
seeing the most fascinating
jungle in the country.
Instead we would have
been visiting a hydroelectric
power plant. It was
declared a national
park as late as 1984.
Even
as you approach Mukkali,
which is still some
distance from the main
entrance to the park,
you can see the changes
taking place in the
vegetation on the surrounding
hills. As you gain altitude
rapidly with one hairpin
bend followed by another,
you notice the jungle
and specially the undergrowth
getting a lot denser.
The leaves seem to get
larger as you approach
the park. The variety
of birds you see also
increases with every
bend in the road. I
was lucky to spot a
huge Giant Malabar Squirrel
basking in the sun on
an exposed branch of
a tree below us. On
entering the main park,
you have no doubts whatsoever
that this is a very
unique jungle and nothing
like the others one
is used to visiting.
Due
to its inaccessibility,
the forest here has
survived without much
influence by man. Due
to this, it is still
a scientist's and researcher's
dream come true. Every
year new plant species
are being discovered
and the presence of
many unexpected birds
realised. For the normal
visitors like us, the
park is open from 6am
to 6pm. The ideal period
for visiting the park
is between the months
of December and April.
For most of the rest
of the year, it rains.
To describe it better,
it pours. The average
annual rainfall is over
3000mm and there are
some spots that receive
even up to 4500mm. The
only ways to visit the
park are by jeep and
a mini bus belonging
to the wildlife department.
Exciting treks are also
organised by the authorities
but prior permission
needs to be taken from
the concerned State
departments.
We
were almost deprived
of accommodation once
again due to a senior
state government official
and his party arriving
the next day. Luckily
for us the officer in
charge of the park was
an excellent and understanding
person who other than
sharing fascinating
information about the
park with us, also gave
us a place to stay on
the condition that we
would vacate it by 8am
the next day. Phew!
Silent
Valley is famous for
its population of the
rare Lion Tailed Macaque.
Besides this it also
hosts healthy numbers
of Tigers, Leopards,
Elephants, Gaur (Indian
Bison), Leopard cats,
Jungle cats, Fishing
cats, Civets, Mongoose,
Wild dogs, Sloth beer,
Otter, Flying Squirrels,
Malabar Giant Squirrels,
Indian Pangolins, Porcupines,
Wild boars, Sambar deer,
Spotted deer, Barking
deer and Mouse deer.
Just like its vegetation,
it also boasts of rare
bird species such as
the Ceylon Frogmouth,
Black Crested Baza,
Shaheen Falcon and the
Nilgiri Laughing Thrush
among 170 species found
there. It is also home
to over 100 species
of butterflies and 400
species of moths.
One
confusing fact we learnt
- one that we were unable
to clarify before we
left - was that foreigners
are not allowed entry
into the park. We sure
were glad there were
no restrictions for
us! We left Silent Valley
the next day swearing
that we would soon return
with trekking permissions
to explore as much of
its fascinating 90 sq
km as is possible. For
the time being we had
to leave with sad hearts
but with the exciting
prospect of our reaching
our next destination,
the Indira Gandhi National
Park, more commonly
known as "Topslip".